Adding Ease to your Flat Paper Sloper

As patterns are being developed, it is important to allow extra measure, or ease, at key locations for comfort and movement. The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect both the fit and silhouette of the finished garment. Relatively small amounts of ease result in a closer-fitting garment with more defined silhouettes, whereas larger amounts of ease result in loose-fitting garments with a baggy silhouette.

Ease amounts can vary widely, however the range shown here represent the ease amounts generally used for the pattern types listed.

Pattern Type

Location

Measurement

Blouse

 

One piece

Bust

Waist

Hip

3”

1½”

1½”

Skirt

Waist

Hip

1”

1½”

Trousers

Waist

Hip

1”

1” to 3”

Jacket

 Coat

Bust

Waist

Hip

5”

3½”

3½”

 

Adding Seam Allowance to your Sloper

Although there are standard seam allowances for every type of garment, these can vary depending on the type of garment and the fabric used. Begin by marking each corner of the garment with a right angle to easily determine the width of the seam being sewn. It is important to keep seam allowances consistent in order to avoid confusion during construction.

Standard seam allowances

Side, shoulder, and centre back seams = ⅝"

Armhole, neckline, extensions, waistline and sleeve cap seams = ⅜"

Hem = 1½ - 2”.